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Controversa Maresia

um blogue de Sofia Vieira

Controversa Maresia

um blogue de Sofia Vieira

bernie´s right

por Vieira do Mar, em 21.02.10

                                                                                                            © sofia vieira 

 

"Summertime 1987. A young man out surfing a popular left-handed beachbreak with his friends (...). The crowd reacts competitivley with each passing wave, a heaving uncertainty of water. Suddenly he notices, off to the side, that the ever changing tides are producing a decent right hander, clean and unridden. Seizing the opportunity, he takes a chance, paddles over to the fleeting apparition and surfs unhindered to his hearts' content. His efforts have been rewarded, the ocean gives up its bounty, her waves are his to do what he pleases. Back on the beach, the boys delight in that post-surf euphoria, discriptions of magical moments, tremendous wipeouts, a unique blend of pleasure and achievement, a celebration of shared endeavor. Its obvious to the crew that Bernie did the right thing, his efforts were worth while - he made that elusive right hander his own. (...)  Bernie's Right its a place, a moment, a State of Mind."

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